Battery Current Draw Checker

How this calculator works

Max continuous current (A) = capacity (Ah) × C-rating

A 1300 mAh 100C pack claims 1.3 × 100 = 130 A continuous. Enter your setup's expected draw and the calculator says whether the pack covers it.

The honest part

C-ratings are marketing tiers, not measurements - there is no industry test behind the printed number, and two "100C" packs can behave completely differently. The full story: the truth about C-ratings.

Treat the calculated ceiling as an optimistic upper bound and keep real draw well under it. A healthy margin is flying at half the claimed maximum or less; a pack routinely pushed near its ceiling sags hard, heats up, and ages in weeks instead of seasons.

Finding your expected draw

The worst case is a full-throttle punch-out with all four motors at max. Motor pages here carry manufacturer bench tables with measured current per throttle step (how to read them) - multiply the 100% figure by four. A typical 6S 5" freestyle build peaks at 80-160 A; whoops pull 8-15 A; long-range cruisers rarely exceed 30 A in normal flight.

For flight-time math you want the average draw instead - that's the flight time calculator's job.

When the check fails

If expected draw exceeds the calculated ceiling: bigger capacity, honest higher-C pack, or gentler throttle. Note that capacity helps twice - a 1500 mAh 100C pack allows 150 A and each cell works relatively less hard at the same draw. Weight taxes both agility and flight time though (AUW explained), so browse the battery database for the lightest pack that passes with margin, and check chemistry first if you cruise more than you punch (Li-ion vs LiPo).